Los mejores lugares para comer chicharrón en Medellín

El chicharrón se vende solo (con papas y ensalada) o en bandeja paisa, según el apetito del comensal.
Este emblemático plato tiene cuatro grandes exponentes en la ciudad y los municipios cercanos. Soda líquida, bicarbonato de sodio, aceite caliente… Son muchos los “secretos” que han acompañado a los cocineros paisas en la búsqueda de un chicharrón perfecto.
En Antioquia esa pieza de carne y grasa de cerdo hace parte de una cantidad inimaginable de platos. Es el centro de la tradicional bandeja paisa, ocupa un lugar importante en las picadas y por sí solo, acompañado apenas por arepa y limón, ya es un plato común en muchos restaurantes.
“El secreto está en saber escoger un buen tocino. Debe tener una muy buena proporción entre carne y grasa… no más de uno que del otro, porque se pone muy duro o muy grasoso”, explica Ana Lucía Jiménez, gerente del restaurante Hacienda Real, en el centro.
Contrario a ella, Gloria Cecilia Ramírez, de ‘La gloria de Gloria” asegura que no hay ‘fórmulas’ y que el secreto de un buen chicharrón es el amor que se pone en la preparación.
En la ciudad abundan restaurantes caseros y especializados en bandeja paisa -que trae chicharrón-, pero los que presentamos a continuación tienen el récord de ser los más grandes y ‘sabrosos’ de la ciudad.
1. Doña Gloria y el mega chicharrón
En Envigado está uno de los restaurantes más tradicionales de comida paisa, se llama ‘La Gloria de Gloria’, en honor a su dueña, Gloria Cecilia Ramírez.
El lugar abrió sus puertas hace 25 años y poco a poco, por el tamaño de sus porciones, comenzaron a ganar fama y clientes. “En un día de semana podemos vender entre 50 y 60 chicharrones. Todos son así, grandes. Los fines de semana pueden ser más de 200 los que se preparen”, explica Carmen Holguín, una de las cocineras del restaurante.
Doña Gloria aún atiende el negocio. Los fines de semana, especialmente, recibe a los turistas y hasta los invita a pasar el chicharrón “con un aguardientico cortesía de la casa”.
El menú del restaurante tiene todos los platos de la gastronomía típica paisa: costillas, fríjoles verdes, mondongo y por supuesto el chicharrón que puede medir entre 30 y 40 centímetros de largo y que pesa un kilo antes de ser preparado.
Dónde: Calle 37 Sur # 35 – 06, Envigado
Cuánto: 25.000 pesos por el chicharrón solo y 30.000 pesos por la bandeja que viene con arroz, fríjol, plátano maduro, huevo, papas y carne molida.
2. Chicharrones trifásicos
El 5 de mayo de 1982 don Orlando Montes comenzó con su restaurante ‘Asados la Parrilla’ en una esquina de Envigado.
Ese barrio posteriormente se convirtió en ‘la calle de la buena mesa’ y el restaurante cambió su nombre por el trifásico. “Unos ejecutivos de Cervunión que venían muy seguido a almorzar siempre pedían el plato posta con oreja y lengua sudada, que se llama trifásico. Y empezaron a llamar al restaurante así”, cuenta don Orlando.
Su chicharrón también comenzó a tener fama por el tamaño y el sabor, al punto de que el negocio fue escogido como uno de los 50 mejores restaurantes de América Latina en 2013.
El plato estrella es la bandeja jumbo, que viene con un chicharrón que pesa una libra y media (750 gramos mal contados, porque a veces es más), acompañado de carne molida, chicharrón, huevo, fríjol, chorizo, papa y yuca.
Para los menos atrevidos hay una versión junior del plato, en la que vienen los mismos ingredientes, pero el chicharrón pesa solamente 500 gramos.
El secreto de don Orlando es la calidad del tocino que se compra: “no puede ser cualquier cosa”, dice y confiesa que el chicharrón ya hace parte de otros platos del lugar como la picada y que incluso se vende solo.
(Este articulo es del 2016, tener en cuenta para precios)
Dónde: Calle 31 Sur # 43 A 68 – Envigado.
Cuánto: 22.000 pesos por el chicharrón con limón, papas y arepa. 25.000 pesos por la bandeja junior y 33.000 por la jumbo.
3. Un chicharrón con cantaleta
Una ‘vuelta a oriente’ -el recorrido turístico por los municipios del Oriente cercano de Antioquia- nunca estará completa sin la entrada a ‘La Cantaleta’, un restaurante que desde hace más de 30 años sirve los chicharrones más famosos de esa zona.
El éxito del negocio ha sido tal que hace cuatro años abrieron una segunda sede, para dar abasto con todos los clientes.
“Nuestro chicharrón tiene un corte especial, seleccionamos cerdos de no más de 70 kilos y el corte se hace abarcando parte de la pierna, por lo que es más ‘carnudo’”, explica Sergio Buitrago, sobrino de María y Noelia, las creadoras del restaurante.
El chicharrón, según la tradición familiar heredada por las propietarias- “se deja entre cinco y seis días en ‘bretaña’ (soda) con sal”, así obtiene mejor sabor.
En un fin de semana, La Cantaleta puede preparar entre 300 y 400 chicharrones, cada uno con un peso de una libra. “Sale picado porque es un corte grueso y a la gente le gusta porque es más ‘sequito’ (crocante)”, agrega Sergio.
Dónde: Kilómetro 6 vía Las Palmas (municipio de El Retiro) y Kilómetro 23 vía Las Palmas (vereda Los Salados).
Cuánto: 15.000 por el chicharón con 4 arepas y limón.
4. Chicharrones ‘de la hacienda’ en el centro
Desde 1991 funciona Hacienda, un restaurante típico en pleno centro de Medellín, famoso por sus “chicharrones de 100 patas”.
De acuerdo con Ana Lucía Jiménez, la gerente del lugar, se hace un proceso cuidadoso de selección del chicharrón cuidando su calidad y las proporciones entre grasa y carne.
Cada chicharrón pesa unos 300 gramos -aunque también hay una versión pequeña en la que pesa 100 gramos- y hace parte de la bandeja paisa, aunque también se sirve en las cazuelas y picadas.
“La temperatura del aceite en el que se prepara el tocino también determina la calidad del plato. La gente lo busca más sequito (crocante) y sin que escurra grasa”, describe Ana Lucía.
Dónde: Carrera 49 # 52-98, Junín.
Cuánto: 25.900 pesos por la bandeja Hacienda que trae chicharrón de 300 gramos y 19.900 pesos por la bandeja con el chicharrón de 100 gramos.
REDACCIÓN DIARIOADN.CO

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